Sotirë to Benjë / Permet (day 5) thermal pools highlight

The Fountain of Youth

Slept well and as today was shorter, Armand suggested a slightly later start. We headed off on a beautiful cool morning under bright blue skies at about 9.30. The first 4 km were uphill through pine forests to a water fountain. Renowned as according to legend if you drink Albanian wine you will live to 120, but if you drink the spring water from the fountain you will live for 200 years. Pretty spot. Had a drink so will wait and see.

We then had a delightful largely downhill run through the heart of the Epirus mountains broadly following the border between Albania and Greece. Good roads, we are getting spoilt, sweeping hairpins and stunning vistas of the mountains. Relaxing coffee break at Leskovik including a visit to the local Melesin Distillery where I decided to buy a bottle, after a mini taster, of their oak barrel ODA Raki Rrushi. Noticed on our ride today a number of roadside shrines, not sure if they are just commemorating an individual or mark where a person died. I think it is the former.

As we dropped further out of the mountains from coffee we entered the wine growing region. Slightly less manicured than in Switzerland and on a small scale. Inspiring to see an older farmer riding up the road with his cart and horses taking his grape harvest to the town we had just left. Unfortunatley for the most part the local Albanian wine we tasted was not very nice / to our taste.

The road down from the mountains was 17km and seemed to go on for ever. it was exceptionally scenic. Had a short stop where we could see the border crossing to Greece crossed over the Vjose river. Must admit I was surprised how low the flow in the river was. I have read reports that too much water is being taken out of the rivers for the tourist developments on the coast and to support the hydroelectric plants. Alternatively it could just be the effects of the drought and a long hot summer. From further research the river is meant to be protected so this must just be low flow due to drought conditions.

Nice cycle along the river, lunch at Carcovë was a welcome respite not least because it was so hot. A small rural restaurant, lovely salads and the boy helping out with serving us was very friendly. He enjoyed practicing his English but left it until we were leaving before trying to chat with us about where we were from. One thing we did notice here is how widely English is spoken which makes it much easier for us. I really liked the church as we approached the restaurant.

Armand said the temperatures today were over 35C. It was also very dry and the sun effect was very strong. So I was glad to put my head under the cold tap and sit in the shade with a light breeze cooling me down. Despite trying to take care of myself I think I over heated today as I became disoriented and irrational later on (see below).

After lunch we had a stiff climb up to a contour road which weaved round the folds in the mountain. Great road to cycle on, as long as you had an e bike! Another long downhill before we left the high mountains behind, joined the river again and arrived at our very nice country hotel.

Below are some photos from our cycle ride to Benjë, click on the photo to see them in full size and others.

Given how hot it was we had a nice relaxing break before heading up the road to the thermal pools. A highlight of the trip I was really looking forward to. It was about 4 km up the road from where we are staying to the thermal pools. I thought as we were cycling that it was all downhill. It was only when we came back, that I realised I had became confused and in fact the cycle back was mainly downhill. I think I had not realised how overheated I had become.

However, I was very glad that we had gone to the site. Mike and I headed off on our own and walked upriver where we found a beautiful blue pool, and some beautiful people (or at least one lass)! Enjoyed walking up the river to the head of the gorge before heading back to our bikes and the ride back ‘home’. Felt very refreshed and fulfilled. Nice to cycle back on our own slowly in the cool evening shade. Now looking forward to my dinner, we had seen the owner cutting up lamb steaks earlier with an axe (still had all his fingers) and they were being grilled on a bbq- very tantalizing aromas.

Mike was not feeling the best and headed off early to bed. Hope he feels better soon. He said the following morning that he had suffered from dehydration and also some heat exhaustion. We were not the only ones in the group suffering.

See below for a video of our ride. Note to see the full controls click on the < control on the progress bar. This will allow you to watch the video full screen