Muzina Pass to Sarandë (via Butrint) day 7

View from the Pass down towards Butrint
Mike so much better this morning and we had a lovely breakfast. All our washing had been done so I was a very happy bunny. We started at 8.30 and got the bus up to the top of the hills above the Gjirokastër to the Muzina Pass at 575m. Nice drive and good not to have to face the 300 m climb up the mountain like one determined lone cyclist we passed on his way up.

We were sitting in the front of the bus which was great because we had a good vantage point and there was more legroom. Saw a herd of horses making use of the twisting walking path leading out of the steep valley gorge we were driving next to. Glad we were not out hiking!

Armand had driven the bikes up on his trailer and he and Kristi spent a few minutes sorting them out before it was off down the pass to the coast with many pleas for us to take it carefully on the way down and not misjudge the hairpins. He was right to warn us as there were some very sharp corners. It was really beautiful but sad at the same time to see the destruction from the recent fires. The campsite we passed seemed to be in the midst of it all but a steady stream of cars were making their way up towards it from the coast so it must be back up and operating.

Had a regroup just past a hydroelectric station opposite a bakery where I purchased a couple of local biscuits as thanks for letting me use the facilities and more importantly wet my shirt and arm protectors. Even though we had just been riding downhill I was already overheating.

We then had a fast ride along the valley floor towards Sarandë. A large part of route was alongside an aqueduct which I think was used to pump water back up to the hydroelectric station. Most of the electricity generation here is via hydro. No wind farms and a little solar.

Rather than stopping at Sarandë we had a loop ride round a section of coast which led us towards Butrint, an important archaeological site. It was a steep climb up out of Sarandë and quite chaotic as there was quite a lot of traffic, some roundabouts etc. A few km the other side we stopped for our coffee break at a gas station. Not the most scenic of our stops it but it was most welcome. We sat in some shade outside, there was a breeze coffee was ok. And I could wet everything down again! It was nice just to have some time to chill out. After coffee we split into 2 groups as some people wanted to relax at the hotel. A virus of some sort is making its way through our ranks which is quite debilitating.

From coffee we had a stiff climb over the ridge before popping over the top with beautiful views of the lagoon, (which forms the inner circle of our loop) and the headland we would later cycle across. Lots of photo opportunities. As we dropped down we moved from ‘scrub’ vegetation into mixed orchards, vines, orange trees, figs, persimmon etc. In the spring with all the blossom out this would be really special. We had another regroup at a memorial to the ethnic cleansing by the Greeks of Albanian people.

Not long from there before we arrived at the rustic ferry, which, crosses the inlet at its narrowest point on a pulley system to Butrint. Lunch today was delicious. As well as the regular salad we also had vine leaves stuffed with rice followed by a whole grilled sea bream which was absolutely outstanding.

I found todays heat quite difficult to handle so choose not to go on the guided tour of Butrint. Mike went round it an really enjoyed it so the plan is he will draft a separate blog describing it. Very nice to sit in the shade after lunch, enjoying a coffee whilst doing my voice note of this mornings ride. Was glad to be in my own space

The ride out of Butrint was quite steep but lovely views of the lagoon. The calm before the storm as once I crested round the headland the wind buffeted me hard. Stopped at a viewpoint to enjoy my first view of Corfu and had a chat with a gentleman siting there before deciding it was time to face the wind again.

Thanks to Andy Nathan for these lovely photos as well others he kindly allowed me to use in my blog of our rides.

View across Ionian Sea

The route was pretty, see below for more photos and some of our highlights:

views across the Ionian Sea, glistening in the afternoon sun, to Corfu and other smaller islands
a small snake slithered across the road in front of us, fortunately I missed it. Andy managed to capture a photo of a lizard posing as a snake that looked remarkably like the one we saw!
Looking down onto the mussel farm, looked like rows of connected floating crab pots!
Having time to stop wherever I wanted an just soak up the environment
Cycling through the first town of Ksamil which had a fun vibe of a busy seaside town
Looking across the lagoon, once freshwater now tidal, to see the route we had cycled before lunch – very lumpy
Getting to the hotel and lounging by the pebble beach with a glass of wine watching g the waves crashing against the concrete sea walls.
Having a G&T with Mike once he had got back at the Ulah beach bar with some of the Irish crew, watching the sun set and some kids playing in the waves as they broke over the deck where we were sitting. Only 2 brave souls (Paul and Mary) braved entering the sea. Waves were a bit too rough for the rest of us. Good crack.

Much happier day today, no upsets or difficult moments. Topped off by an excellent seafood dinner of fresh grilled sea bass at a local restaurant along with a carafe of the best house white wine we have had on holiday.

See below for a video of our ride. Note to see the full controls click on the < control on the progress bar. This will allow you to watch the video full screen